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Boarding the Quoddy Dam boat in Lubec, Maine
Travel in the United States

Visiting Eastport, Maine by Ferry Boat

by Deb C October 19, 2020

Visiting Eastport, Maine by ferry boat is informative as well as fun.  If you want to get there from Lubec, the ferry takes less time than driving (30 minutes vs. 45 or more).  It gives you a whole different view of the waterfront with some history thrown in.  Not only that, you get a whole different view of the Lubec waterfront, as well as of Campobello Island, the site of Roosevelt National Park, which preserves the summer retreat of Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt.

The Eastport – Lubec Ferry

While you can charter a boat to go to Eastport from Lubec, the Eastport-Lubec Ferry is a pleasant and reasonable ride.  It is seasonal and in the summer of 2020, it only ran on weekends.

The Quoddy Dam Eastport-Lubec Ferry boat

The ferry itself is a well-traveled boat called the Quoddy Dam and it offers outside park bench type seating. It’s a U.S. Coast Guard certified 49-passenger vessel.  According to the DownEast Windjammer website, where you can get information and tickets, it’s been an Eastport tradition for over 40 years.  (The above photo is from the DownEast Windjammer website.)

The usual ferry schedule is that it runs every other hour, starting in Eastport at 10.  It alternates odd hours with Lubec, with the last run at 5 p.m. from Lubec to Eastport.  If you take that one, you will have to plan to stay overnight, or find an alternate means of getting back to Lubec.  So, if you take the first ferry from Lubec at 11 o’clock, you can take return trips from Eastport at noon, 2, and 4 p.m.  Depending upon your interests, you can explore the waterfront, downtown area, shop, visit some historic sites and venues, and have lunch all within a short walk from the dock.

Accessing The Eastport – Lubec Ferry from Lubec, Maine

In order to take the ferry, your best bet is to either Google it, or go to the DownEast Windjammer website. We recommend calling and talking to someone to make sure of where and when the boat is running.  The schedule on the website is subject to change.  Also, they may have changed where it docks.

Dock in Lubec, Maine for boat tours and ferry

In 2020, the Quoddy Dam was docking at 31 Johnson St.  The dock is accessed behind a small building with restrooms and an office for Way DownEast Real Estate and DownEast Charters.   You’ll find it a short walk from Lubec’s downtown.

Boarding the Quoddy Dam boat in Lubec, Maine

You can either buy tickets online or on the boat.  Either way it is first come, first serve, so buying a ticket doesn’t guarantee a seat.  The day we went, we arrived about 25 minutes ahead of time, and there were already people waiting.   Buying a ticket ahead of time does speed up the boarding process. FYI: They let you bring your bicycle.  And your well-behaved dog.

As it can be chilly on the water, it’s recommended that you bring a windbreaker or sweater for comfort.  It happened that the day we chose in August was absolutely perfect, temperature and wind wise.  We were comfortable in blouses and t-shirts both on and off the water.  The water was very calm, going and coming back.  Some years ago, we made the trip on a very foggy 4th of July.  We were glad to have hoodies and jackets to keep off the chilling breeze and damp mist.

Casting Off from Lubec to visit Eastport

Once everyone was checked in, settled, and counted, we had a full boat from children to very senior citizens.  There was a mix of local residents, seasonal residents, and tourists.  Some artists were bringing their artwork to Eastport for display and for sale in the shops and galleries.

Aboard the Quoddy Dam ferry boat

As we left the dock and pulled away from Lubec, we passed various small boats dotting Johnson’s Bay.

Boats moored off of Lubec, Maine Fishing boats near dock in Lubec, Maine

A Tour as Well as a Ferry Boat Ride

While we signed up for a ride, we didn’t realize we would also receive a narrated tour along the way.  As The Quoddy Dam wove between small uninhabited islands and Campobello Island on its way to Eastport, the Mate or Captain pointed out items of interest and gave tidbits of history.

Passing an island on the way to Eastport, Maine

Here’s a view of the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Bridge that connects Lubec with Campobello Island:

View of FDR bridge connecting Campobello and Lubec, Maine

As we moved along the western side of Campobello, we saw Friar’s Head, a rock formation that resembles a hooded monk, or Friar.  We could see the beach and rear of the Roosevelt’s cottage.  Unfortunately, as Campobello is part of Canada, United States citizens can’t travel to the island to visit the park and cottage until restrictions due to the Pandemic are lifted.

Friar's Head, Campobello, N.B., Canada Closer view of Friar's Head, Campobello, N.B., Canada

Beyond Friar’s Head commercial aquaculture is display as several salmon weirs or pens were situated so that young fish could be raised more naturally in the chilly waters of the bay.

Cultivated salmon weirs or pens off of Campobello

The Passamaquoddy Bay that The Quoddy Dam travels through is part of the Bay of Fundy, home of the highest tides in the world.  It is also home The Old Sow, the hemisphere’s largest whirlpool, which can have a pig-like sound. The Old Sow was and is to be avoided by small and especially non-motorized watercraft.

As we approached Eastport, old sardine canneries and other waterfront properties were pointed out to us.  A majority of the downtown building date from the late 1800’s and have interesting architectural features.

Old sardine cannery and view of Downtown Eastport from the water.

Many a fisherman and woman and child were fishing from small boats.  They also lined the large pier as we pulled up to the dock along one side of it.

Eastport Breakwater and Pier with lineup of fishermen and women.

It’s hard to see, but anglers were lined up all along the Eastport pier trying their luck.  Eastport boasts some of the best mackerel fishing in all of Maine.

Eager fishermen near Eastport, Maine breakwater

For several weeks during the summer of 2020, there wasn’t any access to the pier.  This was because the cruise ship, the Riviera, had docked there.  Eastport is the deepest natural seaport on the East Coast so it can accommodate large vessels.  When cruises were shut down due to the COVID19 Pandemic, cruise lines looked for ports to park their vessels safely and Eastport is large and deep enough for the 785 foot ship.  Eastport is also a Port of Entry for non-U.S. watercraft, as it borders Canada.  U.S. Customs has an office by the pier and patrols the waters between the U.S. and Campobello and Deer Island, N.B., Canada.

Here are some photos of the Riviera to give you an idea of how large the ship is, and how deep the water must be in order to be for it to be able to dock there:

The Riviera cruise ship when docked in Eastport, Maine View of cruise ship Riviera in Eastport, Maine 2

 

Above is the view heading down a hill towards Downtown Eastport.  The building on the left is huge, and the buildings in front are also three stories high.  This gives you an idea of how large the Riviera is.  In the photo below, note how the ship takes up the entire length of the pier.  Due to COVID19 and U.S. Government protocol, the ship was quarantined. No one was allowed on the pier during its stay in port.  The area anglers had to find other piers and docks to fish off of for the duration.
Contrast of Fisherman statue and Riviera cruise ship in Eastport, Maine

The Riviera wasn’t the first cruise ship to dock at the Eastport pier.  Each summer smaller cruise ships regularly dock there so passengers can enjoy the ambience, seafood restaurants, shops, art galleries, museums, trails, and historic sites.

Arriving in Eastport Maine by Ferry Boat

While you do have a ramp from the dock to access the mainland, the main downtown area is very walkable.  The streets leading away from the downtown do have a steep incline, but most of the sights and businesses are along Water Street, which runs parallel to the waterfront.  There are port-a-potties on the pier near where the ferry docks, should anyone need them.  There’s also a food truck on the pier if you don’t want to wait to eat at a downtown restaurant.

When you arrive in Eastport, to reach the heart of the city, take a left as you leave the pier.  As you walk along, there are interesting shops on both sides of the street, , including a glorious candy store.  Some, including S.L. Wadsworth & Son,  he oldest chandlery in the U.S., are regularly open and determined to ride out the Pandemic.   Even with shops closed, or by appointment only, there’s plenty to enjoy as far as interesting points of interest and building features.

Walking the Waterfront of Eastport, Maine

At the entrance to Overlook Park, a small amphitheater by the waterfront, there is “Nature’s Grace,” a “Schoodic Sculpture” that is part of a series of 34 sculptures on the Maine Sculpture Tour in DownEast Maine.

Nature's Grace sculpture, Eastport, Maine

To the left of “Nature’s Grace” you can access the pleasant waterfront or harbor walkway that runs between the water and the back of the downtown buildings.  There are lovely flowers as well as boats to see along the way.  As you reach the end of one block of buildings, you will see “naughty” Nerida, a bronze mermaid sculpture, by local sculptor, Richard Klyver.

Nerida, the mermaid found on the walkway along Eastport's waterfront.

As you can climb up and sit next to her, many do, and have their pictures taken, or take selfies.

Perhaps a stone’s throw away is a totally different type of statue, which some label “The Goofy Fisherman.”  He was a prop for the 2001 Fox TV series “Murder in Small Town X.”  When Fox left town, the statue stayed.

Fisherman statue, Eastport, Maine

Nearby are large historical signs like this one providing information about the area.

Historical sign in Downtown Eastport, Maine

A little beyond the statue you will find The Waco Diner, the oldest diner in Maine.  Whether you dine in, or outside on the back deck, the experience and food are great.

The Waco Diner, Downtown Eastport, MaineWater view from Waco Diner back deck

From the Waco Diner deck you might see the ferry that runs from Campobello to Deer Island, the U.S. Customs boats, assorted commercial boats and ships, and yachts against the backdrop of Campobello Island.

Fish and Chips at Waco Diner

The Fish and Chips basket is really enough for two people. Underneath the top piece of fish there’s another huge piece as well as a generous mound of delicious hot fries.   The Waco includes more seafood, including fried clams, as well as burgers amd more. They offer a nice variety of Maine craft beer on tap. They also serve breakfast with specialties like blueberry pancakes made with local berries.

By taking the 11 a.m. ferry from Lubec, we had enough time to leisurely walk along the storefronts, up one street a few blocks, have lunch, and walk back along the waterfront walk, and were back in time to take the 2 p.m. ferry ride back to Lubec.

Heading Back to Lubec  after visiting Eastport by Ferry Boat

There’s lots more to see and do in Eastport, but we’ll save that for another post.  Eastport hosts several annual events, including a unique New Year’s Eve celebration.  See our previous post here.

As the ferry made its way back along Eastport’s shoreline, we saw some of the equipment for Eastport’s Estes Head Cargo Terminal operated by the Eastport Port Authority and is separate and southwest of the breakwater pier downtown.  The cargo terminal is the closest one to Europe.  Among other items, it’s shipped cows, fish, and wood pulp.  It also receives shipments from Europe and even as far away as Alaska.

We also saw a lovely older mansion crowning the top of a rocky hilltop overlooking the water’s edge.

View of waterfront house in Eastport, Maine

As we approached Lubec, the ferry’s captain mentioned some places to visit in Lubec and cautioned those making a return trip to Eastport not to miss the boat leaving at 5 p.m.

View of Lubec, Maine from the Eastport - Lubec Ferry

Here’s a view of Lubec from the deck of The Quoddy Dam during a glorious day in mid-August, 2020.  If you are looking for a  different outdoor, eye-pleasing, laided-back, unhurried travel experience, take the Lubec-Eastport Ferry.

Eastport featured in a Documentary

Eastport is one of eight towns featured in “Our Towns” a documentary by Academy Award-nominated filmmakers Steven Ascher and Jeanne Jordan, based upon the book “Our Towns: A 100,000 Mile Journey into the Heart of America” by James and Deborah Fallows, released on HBO/HBO Max in April, 2021.  It is a portrait of  the United States and how small cities and towns are surviving and reinventing themselves.  See the trailer here.

Want to learn how to start a blog?

Here’s some courses to get you started:  Start A Travel Blog

or Start A Blogging Business.  

October 19, 2020 1 comment
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Grilled chicken sandwich on patio at Lucerne Inn
Craft Beer AdventuresMaine Beer TrailTravel in the United States

Outdoor Dining at The Lucerne Inn, Dedham Maine

by Deb C September 9, 2020

This is a followup to the post about the Lucerne Inn during the winter.  On a lovely summer day we stopped for outdoor dining at The Lucerne Inn, Dedham, Maine.

 Outdoor Dining at The Lucerne Inn

The Lucerne Inn offers indoor and outdoor dining during the summer season.  As our visit was during the Pandemic, we opted for the outdoor dining in their back patio area.

You access the patio by walking to the left of the building and following a paved path from the front parking lot. There aren’t any stairs to navigate.  (If you want to go into the building, a sign on the door had a telephone number to call for service.  This was due to COVID19  regulations.)

The patio is attached to the back of the Inn and is shaded by a large white awning.  Depending upon the weather, and occasion, especially weddings, the sides of the patio may be enclosed by white panels with clear window like inserts.

When we arrived, we were asked if we were there for “the fundraiser.”  We weren’t but we were welcome to stay.  We opted to take an empty table along the pathway and a few yards from the patio area.  It was perfect as we could enjoy the live music and murmur of the other diners while staying at a distance.  While we didn’t have any shade, it was later in the day. The sun was nearing the distant horizon while a slight Maine breeze made for a comfortable experience.

Entertainers by patio at Lucerne Inn, Maine    Patio at Lucerne Inn, Dedham, Maine in Summertime

As you can see, the patio has plenty of room for a “fresh air” wedding reception or other celebration.

Light and Casual Dining

The Inn has a separate and casual menu for the patio versus their restaurant and pub menus.  We opted for a grilled chicken sandwich

Grilled chicken sandwich on patio at Lucerne Inn

and grilled veggie kabobs with black bean dip and yummy corn bread. Both came with Miss Vickie’s chips.  It was like picnicking as we had paper plates and plastic utensils and sat at a wooden picnic table.

 

Veggie kabobs and bean dip on patio at Lucerne Inn

The Lucerne Inn features craft beer from local Maine breweries along with Bud, Bud Lite, and Coors Lite. When we visited in the winter, we enjoyed craft beer on draft.  For patio dining, our beer was served in cans.  Our table was decorated with a mock buoy, a nod to Maine’s seafaring culture.  Tantalizing glimpses and views of the ocean and inlets can be seen while driving that stretch of Rt. 1.  (If you like the buoy idea for table markers or decoration, you can find them on Etsy or eBay.)

Maine craft beer selection at Lucerne Inn

 

Mason’s Brewing Company is located in Brewer, Maine, which is adjacent to Bangor.  The Lucerne Inn had a selection of beer from Mason’s.  You can take a virtual tour of Mason’s on their website: https://masonsbrewingcompany.com/

Masons's Brewing Company logo Mason’s has some edgy beer names such as:  Ghost Reaper, Liquid Rapture, Mushroom Cloud, and Hipster Apocalypse with “zombie” and dark artwork on the cans to match the names.  The Hipster Apocalypse can features a skeletal figure with a t-shirt that says “Stephen King Rules.”  (Author Stephen King lives in Bangor.)

Mason's Hipster Apocalypse beer can

The Lucerne Inn also had beer from the Airline Brewing Company, located in Amherst, Maine.  Airline also has a British style pub on Main Street in Ellsworth, Maine.   “Airline” is a reference to the name of the stretch of Rt. 9 from Bangor to Calais that the brewery is located near.

Coaster from the Airline Brewing Co. Pub

 

Summer Views at The Lucerne Inn

The Lucerne Inn overlooks Phillips Lake and Bald Mountain crowns the landscape in the distance.  A small gazebo graces the area by the outdoor pool.  Unfortunately closed due to the Pandemic.

View from patio at The Lucerne Inn

 

The Lucerne Inn is a popular place for weddings.  A larger gazebo offers a lovely platform for outdoor weddings.

View of The Overlook and gazebo at The Lucerne Inn

 

The building to the left is The Overlook, part of The Lucerne Inn complex, and a venue for weddings and receptions.  White folding chairs for wedding guests can be set up by the gazebo.

The Overlook at The Lucerne InnGazebo ready for wedding at Lucerne Inn

 

The Way Outdoor Dining Should Be

Social distancing, or not, outdoor dining in the patio area at The Lucerne Inn was a great experience.  The table, the views, the weather, the music, the food and drink all came together. There weren’t any bugs, either.

Some may prefer a wider menu.  You may be able to ask for the pub or restaurant menu, or dine inside and still enjoy the peaceful views.

If you like craft beer, there was a variety of styles from two local breweries to choose from.  You can enjoy them at the Inn when you don’t have time to seek out the breweries themselves, or want to limit your stops.

You can read more about The Lucerne Inn on Rt. 1 in Dedham, Maine, here.

You can read these posts about other Maine Craft Breweries:  2 Feet Brewing, and Maine Beer Company.

If you want to keep more detailed records of where you went and what beer you enjoyed, you might like Keeping Up with Craft Beers: A Journal for Your Tasting Adventures. You can list up to 100 beers, as well as list breweries and brew pubs you liked as well as beer festivals.

September 9, 2020 0 comment
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The Lucerne Inn logo
Craft Beer AdventuresNew experienceTravel in the United States

The Lucerne Inn a Maine attraction on the way to Acadia

by Deb C January 14, 2020
The Lucerne Inn logo

One of those “Some day we will have to go there” places

The Lucerne Inn is a year-round Maine attraction on the way to Acadia . If you’re traveling to Bar Harbor or Acadia, you’ll pass it on Rt. 1A between Bangor and Ellsworth. It’s a great place for a meal as well as a room, no matter the season. We stayed there in early January and loved it.

The Lucerne Inn is one of those places that is located along a main route to a “destination.” In this case, it’s between Bangor and Ellsworth, Maine, the major cities in that part of Maine. You also have to pass it to get to Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park. Other than the golf course, which is by and across the street from it, there’s not many reasons to stop.

We pass it all the time on our way to our place in Lubec. We often break our six hour drive by staying overnight at a chain hotel in either Augusta, Waterville, Bangor, or sometimes Ellsworth. Usually, we pick a hotel based upon rewards and price. This time we opted to splurge a bit and try the Lucerne. We were delighted to find a discount online. We also liked that we didn’t have to leave to find a place to eat, like we do for the chains.

A little bit of “Wow” along a tree-lined highway

You will find the Inn as you reach an open area on top of a rise overlooking Phillips Lake. You can’t miss it. It has a fantastic view of water and mountains beyond. The main building is flanked by separate and complimentary buildings all white and all well kept and enhanced by seasonal floral accents.

While it looks large from the outside, it has a cosy atmosphere within it’s historic walls. It’s origins date back to shortly after the War of 1812 when it became a stagecoach stop between Bangor and Ellsworth. The inn celebrated it’s 200th anniversary in 2014 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. The hallways and dining room are enhanced by vintage and antique furnishings and paintings.

  • Front hallway of the Lucerne Inn Dedham Maine
Parts of the front hallway at The Lucerne Inn in Dedham, Maine.

For the 200th anniversary, the innkeepers added new amenities to the rooms, including a gas-fired fireplace, whirlpooltub, towel-warming bar, furniture, and custom curtains and comforters. The complimentary toiletries are Beekman’s 1812 goat milk brand. The towels are thick and the mattresses comfy.

  • Photos of a room at the Lucerne Inn in Dedham, Maine.
Some amenities at The Lucerne Inn in Dedham, Maine.

In the back of the inn is a patio, large swimming pool, and a gazebo where seasonal wedding ceremonies are held with Phillips Lake and mountains as a backdrop.

  • view of back of Lucerne Inn in winter
  • view of back of Lucerne Inn in winter
Views from the back of the Lucerne Inn overlooking the patio, swimming pool, Phillips Lake and beyond.

Dining Options at the Lucerne Inn

The Lucerne Inn has both a restaurant and a pub serving dinner to the public as well as guests. The restaurant menu reflects fresh local and seasonal ingredients and an experienced chef’s touch. Sample menus are posted on the Inn’s website. Dinner is served seven days a week from 5 to 9 p.m. A sumptuous Sunday Brunch Buffet is served from 9 to 12:30.

  • The dining room at The Lucerne Inn in Dedham, Maine.
The dining room at The Lucerne Inn in Dedham, Maine.

Rian’s Pub is open from 4 to 9 p.m. with happy hour from 4 to 6.

Bar in Rian's Pub at Lucerne Inn
Bar in Rian’s Pub at Lucerne Inn

Rian’s Pub has a separate pub menu.

  • Appetizers served in Rian's Pub at The Lucerne Inn
    Scallops wrapped in bacon
  • Appetizers served in Rian's Pub at The Lucerne Inn
    Spinach artichoke mushroom flatbread pizza

It also has a special menu during their happy hour. That is the time to go, as they reduce the prices on the finger foods, but the quality is high. (Note that the links to the menus are for what is currently posted on the Inn’s website.) They offer a couple of Maine craft beers on draft. When we were there they had beer from the Airline Brewing Company of Amherst and Ellsworth and Geaghan Brothers of Bangor and Brewer, Maine.

Views of Rian's Pub in The Lucerne Inn
Fireplace in cosy Rian’s Pub in The Lucerne Inn in Dedham, Maine

On Fridays from mid-January until May the restaurant offers an all-you-can-eat seafood dinner. All the courses have fish or seafood and dessert is included. Past menus are posted on The Lucerne Inn website.

Guests at the Inn will wake to enjoy a continental breakfast served in the dining room. You can enjoy egg and sausage “boats”, fresh fruit salad, pastries, English muffins, yogurt, juice and coffee and tea while enjoying the morning sun reflecting off of the lake and rolling hills seen from your table.

Winter view from Lucerne Inn Dining Room

The Lucerne Inn is Pet Friendly

You might be greeted by the owner’s golden retriever. The Inn allows pets for $25 per day. There are a limited number of pet-friendly rooms, so keep that in mind when planning your stay.

More to know about why The Lucerne Inn is a Maine attraction

Special Occasions

The Lucerne Inn offers Romantic overnight or weekend specials which include a room, champagne or cider, dinner for two including dessert, and chocolate covered strawberries, plus breakfast or Sunday brunch if you stay on Saturday night.

The Lucerne Inn also is the site for special events and business gatherings. It offers specialized seating, break out rooms, and catering packages.

Weddings

The Lucerne Inn offers the romantic Overlook Room or a tented patio for wedding venues. There’s a lovely gazebo with white folding chairs for ceremonies. There’s a wedding planner onsite and the catering staff will work with you on customizing a menu. The staff also offers planning assistance for off-site wedding party outings, recreational activities and local tours. Room Blocks at a discount are available for wedding guests staying at the Inn. You can see photos of the gazebo and patio and request a proposal via their website.

The Overlook

The Overlook Room is in a building separate from the main building. It features four chandeliers, a gas fireplace, an area for a dance floor, and a little alcove that faces Bald Mountain and Phillips Lake. It holds up to 120 people with tables/chairs and dance floor or 140 people with tables/chairs and no dance floor. 

Tented and lit Patio with lake and mountain views

A brick patio attached to the back of the main building provides an outdoor feeling while having an elegant ambiance. Roll up the tent sides and there’s a beautiful view of Phillips Lake and Bald Mountain and starry Maine nights. It holds up to 195 people with tables and chairs and there’s plenty of room for dancing.

A little more about The Inn

During our stay we noticed that the first floor had rooms as well as the restaurant and pub. So, for those who avoid stairs, the floor plan is a plus. They do have rooms on other levels with stairs so be mindful of that when booking. The bathtub had a bathmat and a grab bar. Not a permanent grab bar, but still better than other places we’ve stayed.

Lucerne-in-Maine Golf course is adjacent to The Inn

A nine hole golf course, designed by Donald Ross, and separately owned and operated, faces the Inn from across Rt. 1A and also abuts it. There’s a tunnel under the road for golfers to travel to The Inn side of the course.

Local Folk and Eagles also a Maine Attraction

The people that you find there also make the Lucerne Inn a Maine attraction . Not only those who work there, but also those who drop in for a meal and drinks at Rian’s Pub or the restaurant. The night we were there several couples, in all age brackets, came in. There were often friendly greetings among friends, as well as sharing of stories of how they came to the area. It made for a cosy, companionable atmosphere. The wood stoked fire in the pub’s fireplace enhanced the setting.

As we were leaving Lucerne Inn after our breakfast, an eagle swooped over our heads. DownEast and Acadia offer an abundance of bird watching opportunities, especially of migratory birds and experiencing the eagle was an example. Whether or not you are a bird watcher, seeing a bald eagle is a special moment. There is a Maine Birding Trail with a website about bird watching in Maine. The DownEast Acadia website also has information about bird watching in the area.

January 14, 2020 0 comment
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Lobster costumed man at Eastport Maine New Years Eve
Maine Beer TrailNew experienceQuirky FindsTravel in the United States

Quirky New Year’s Eve in Eastport, Maine

by Deb C December 19, 2019

Looking for a unique and quirky New Year’s Eve event? Go to Eastport, Maine.

Lobster costumed man at Eastport New Years Eve

Eastport Maine has International Take on Celebrating New Year’s Eve

The small city of Eastport, the Easternmost in the U.S., puts on not only a Maine, but an International spin on its New Year’s Eve celebration. Eastport and its coastline neighbors are adjacent to the Canadian border and islands. As a result, friendships, tourism, and commerce are intertwined among U.S. and Canadian residents. Due to the Time Zone boundary, Canada, on Atlantic Time, welcomes the New Year one hour earlier than Eastport. This leads to a little twist in the celebration, as Eastport celebrates twice, one hour apart.

We aren’t ones for celebrating New Year’s Eve in a big way. Usually we walk over to a neighbor’s party if we do anything. So traveling six or so hours to celebrate is an adventure for us.

We have a cabin about 45 minutes from Eastport so we know the area, but close it up for the winter. In 2012 Anderson Cooper announced that Eastport’s unusual celebration would be part of his New Year’s Eve Special. Well, that motivated us to head north to welcome in the New Year.

PLEASE NOTE:  Since this was written, COVID19 impacted some of the festivities.  As of Dec. 31, 2021, some of the usual activities were re-instated, with safe practices in mind.  See this year’s schedule of events here.

Eastport Welcomes New Year’s Eve Revelers

Although small, Eastport has a motel and several B&B’s, plus a charming downtown with several restaurants and shops. The Quoddy Tides, the local newspaper that we subscribe to, features several articles and ads for special events and restaurant specials in Eastport on New Year’s Eve. Some of the stores stay open late and offer mulled cider or hot chocolate.

We made our motel and restaurant reservations using the information in the Quoddy Tides. The motel and B&B’s are a short walk to downtown. Once you check in, you can walk to all the restaurants and shops, as well as the New Year’s Eve countdown.

As you might expect, the celebration is in a prominent place downtown, Bank Square, which is at a wide fork in the road. Most of the restaurants either face the fork or are a block or two away.

Waco Diner in Bank Square Eastport Maine
The Waco Diner, established 1924, faces Bank Square. At past New Year’s Eve’s, the Waco Diner has offered midnight and New Year’s Day breakfasts. The owner has sponsored firework displays after both the Maple Leaf and Great Sardine Drops.

Welcoming the New Year is coordinated and hosted by the Tides Institute & Museum of Art at Bank Square. The Tides Institute’s building is the former Eastport Savings Bank, built in 1887. It’s located at the fork in Downtown Eastport and it’s location, height, and sidewalk frontage lend themselves to being the focal point of the festivities.

During the late afternoon and evening hours leading up to the last hour of the year, the city, including the Tides Institute and Eastport Arts Center, Peavey Public Library, and galleries, offers a variety of fun and family events, programs, and exhibits, free and for a modest fee.

NOTE:  Since this post was written, several new shops have opened in Downtown Eastport, as well as a wine bar – Phoenix Fine Wines and a craft microbrewery – Horn Run Brewing.

The Tides Institute & Museum of Art provides a schedule of events and store and restaurant hours on their website:  tidesinstitute.org/newyearseve  

Eastport Offers Warm Hospitality on Cold Night

We started our celebration with appetizers and a cocktail at one restaurant, since closed and re-opened under new ownership. We then walked about a block to the Happy Crab, where we’ve always enjoyed a great meal. The Happy Crab had a special New Year’s Eve menu and live entertainment. After a leisurely dinner, we walked to Bank Square to see the preparations for the live broadcast coverage by news correspondent Gary Tuchman to Anderson Cooper’s New Year’s Eve program on CNN. It was cold so we browsed and warmed up in the shops until about 10 minutes to 11.

Dropping the Maple Leaf

  • Maple Leaf being lowered New Years Eve in Eastport Maine
  • Maple Leaf lowered New Years Eve in Eastport Maine

Phase one of the festivities is celebrating New Year’s on Canadian/Atlantic time by lowering a large lit up wooden Canadian Maple Leaf from the Tides Institute Building as 11 p.m. approaches. A brass band plays “O Canada” as revelers sing.

Part of the fun is that people come with fun outfits or hats. People in moose and fish hats and someone dressed as a lobster added to the Maine flavor when we went.

Some members of the local Passamaquoddy tribe of the Wabanaki may come in native dress. In 2012 they were peacefully protesting as part of a year of global agitation about the rights of Indigenous peoples and to protect their cultures and defend the Earth.

  • New Years Eve Revelers in Bank Square in Eastport Maine
  • Crowd at Eastport Maine New Years Eve
Wabanaki in crowd at Eastport Maine New Years Eve 2012

New Year’s Eve 2012, a “Mountie”, Brent Dakai, of the Integrated Border Enforcement Team of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police, was on hand for the Maple Leaf Drop.

  • Canadian Mountie with Maple Leaf at Eastport Maine New Years Eve
  • Canadian Mountie at Eastport Maine New Years Eve 2012

After the Maple Leaf Drop, we walked the few blocks to the Motel East to warm up and watch Anderson Cooper until it was close to midnight, Eastern Daylight Savings Time.

On New Year’s Eve, Dec. 2021, the Tides Institute (TIMA) provided live stream video on its Facebook and Instagram pages. As of December 2023, TIMA still provides live streaming  a little before and after midnight Atlantic time and midnight Eastern time.

The Great Sardine Drop in Eastport

Due to the cold, and because the shops, restaurants, motel and B&B’s are close by, people tend to stay indoors between the two celebrations. Rather like ants to a piece of candy dropped on the sidewalk, all of a sudden, people walk from all directions to Bank Square a little before 12 midnight. The 8 foot Sardine sculpture hangs from upstairs windows at the Tides Institute waiting for the countdown. The sardine is made by East Machias woodworker and sculptor Bill Schaefer. It is the third version of the sardine since the first drop in 2004. Why a sardine? The sardine was a big part of the fishing and canning industries in Eastport and nearby Lubec. Eastport was known for its sardine factories, now closed and most torn down.

  • New Years Eve Revelers watching Sardine being lowered in Eastport
  • Sardine as it's being lowered in Eastport Maine NYE
  • Sardine in Bank Square Eastport Maine New Years Eve
  • Kissing the Sardine in Eastport Maine New Years Eve
  • Kissing the Sardine Tradition in Eastport Maine New Years Eve

The Sardine is slowly lowered as the Brass ensemble plays “Auld Lang Syne” and the crowd sings and cheers. Sometimes there are fireworks courtesy of a local business. Once the Sardine is on the ground, the tradition is to line up and kiss it for good luck in the New Year. During the 2012 New Year’s Eve, the TV crew provided a live feed of the proceedings to Anderson Cooper.  In 2021, stickers of a kiss-print were distributed and revelers could place them on an eight-foot sardine billboard and take photos.  No more kissing the fish directly, but you can still take photos and selfies.

  • Fireworks behind Waco Diner in Eastport Maine on New Years Eve
  • New Years Eve Fireworks over Waco Diner Eastport Maine
  • Fireworks at Eastport Maine New Years Eve

Following the festivities, a nearby restaurant may offer a midnight breakfast to close out the night.

 

First Sunrise of the New Year seen early in Eastport

Eastport, being the easternmost city in the United States, is also one of the first places to view the sunrise. So, if you are in Eastport, you can be one of the first people to see the sun come over the horizon on January 1st.

Motel East in Eastport Maine

Motel East in Eastport overlooks the harbor and seacoast. From the rooms facing East you can see across the Bay of Fundy to the island of Campobello, which is Canadian. Sent your alarm clock and you can experience the night sky slowly brighten as the new day dawns on a new year as the sun’s rays appear above Campobello’s treeline. Priceless!

  • View of sunrise over Campobello Island from Eastport Maine
  • View of sunrise over Campobello Island from Eastport Maine
  • View of sun starting to rise over Campobello from Eastport Maine
  • View of sun rising over Campobello seen from Eastport Maine
  • View of sun rising over Campobello Island from Eastport Maine
  • View of sun appearing over Campobello Island from Eastport Maine
  • View of sun appearing over Campobello from Eastport Maine
  • Sunrise on New Years Day as seen from Eastport Maine
  • Sun rising over Campobello as seen from Eastport Maine

Eastport featured in a Documentary

Eastport is one of eight towns featured in “Our Towns” a documentary by Academy Award-nominated filmmakers Steven Ascher and Jeanne Jordan, based upon the book “Our Towns: A 100,000 Mile Journey into the Heart of America” by James and Deborah Fallows, released on HBO/HBO Max in April, 2021.  It is a portrait of  the United States and how small cities and towns are surviving and reinventing themselves.  See the trailer here.

Want to learn how to start a blog?

Here’s some courses to get you started:  Start A Travel Blog

or Start A Blogging Business.  

December 19, 2019 0 comment
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Maine Beer Company Freeport Maine Entrance
Craft Beer AdventuresMaine Beer TrailTravel in the United States

On the Maine Beer Trail – Maine Beer Company Freeport

by Deb C November 4, 2019

Include Maine Beer Company Freeport when visiting L.L. Bean and the outlets.

We often visit Maine, and if it’s meal time we may seek out a brewery near our route. Some years ago we discovered craft beer. And we also discovered that many breweries offer good food or food trucks. Breweries and “Mom and Pop” places are fun and tasty alternatives to chains.

The Maine Brewers Guild guides you to breweries in Maine via its website and Maine Beer Trail brochure.

Maine Beer Company Freeport Maine entrance

Freeport, Maine is home to the Maine Beer Company

When we first visited the Maine Beer Company in 2017, it’s outdoor seating seemed bigger than it’s indoor. Picnic tables with water bowls for dogs and an outdoor pizza oven dominated the front parking area. The tap room, entered by a small front porch, was simple, as were the restrooms. They had just eight beers on tap so decisions were simple, as we usually got flights so we had a sampler of each. Huge plate sized pretzels with mustard that were self-serve covered a corner of the bar.

Renovations give the Maine Beer Company a whole new feel

What a difference in 2019! The brewery added a two-story, 30,000-square-foot building to its original space with a new larger entrance. Now there’s a long bar with twenty beers on tap, an indoor food service, well-lit beer hall with a mezzanine, extensive beer cooler, gift shop, and a large roof-covered patio area. Dogs are still welcome in the patio and you can still pick out a large self-serve pretzel as you order your beer.

The outside entrance seems modest, but it’s deceptive, as the inside is extensive and well-lit. I wish I had taken more photos, but it was quite busy and I was trying not to include people.

The entrance, within a simple post and beam black barn-like structure, is now at the side of the building. A wide staircase leads down to the patio and tasting room/beer hall. Rather than have a handicap access ramp outside, which could be challenging in rain or snow, the ramp is immediately inside the wide door. There were a number of people with walkers and strollers who made use of it.

Entrance to Maine Beer Company from bottom of stairs
Exit/Entrance of Maine Beer Company from bottom of stairs
Maine Beer Company Bar
Maine Beer Company bar with mezzanine seating area overlooking
the Tasting Room and production area.

We were a little overwhelmed with the new larger setup that we stuck with the beers we knew. We like hoppy beer so we chose Lunch, which is one of their headliners, so to speak. Samplers of the Post Ride Snack – Session IPA , Dinner – Double IPA, and Wolfe’s Neck – IPA rounded out our flights. A pretzel said “pick me” and we added a pizza baked their new indoor wood-fired oven. All were very tasty.

Plenty of room to accommodate groups, strollers, wheelchairs and walkers, and pets

The two-story taproom accommodates about 500 people. It is open and airy and enhanced by plants, a fountain framed by stone benches and a bronze sculpture of a tree within a stone circle providing more casual seating. The mezzanine above the bar area overlooks the taproom and production area. It offers a variety of seating and a shuffleboard.

We sat in the new patio area, which is about two-thirds under an overhang, and one third in the sun. A rock wall and picnic tables with umbrellas are in the sun, and long tables in the shaded area. Several dogs were the patio area and enjoying the water bowls provided for them. The patio will have heat lamps in colder weather.

Maine Beer Company in Freeport attracts singles, couples, families of multi-generations

The day we stopped at the brewery it was quite busy. Customers ranged from couples with/without strollers and/or dogs, families of three generations, and retirees with and without walkers or canes. The brewery was doing a brisk business with bottled beer from the self-serve cooler. People, noticeably women as well as men, were leaving with cases, not just a couple of bottles of beer. In addition to beer to go, you can also buy gift certificates and merchandise in the gift shop area.

Maine Beer Company cooler
One section of the Maine Beer Company cooler

Experimental Black Barn Beer series

The sign to the left of the cooler explains their Black Barn Program: “Our Black Barn Program is about being creative, learning, and challenging our team to brew the highest quality beer. Our beer goes through extensive lab testing and our robust sensory program in order to comply with our belief in quality over quantity. Black Barn beers are brewed on our 15BBL brewhouse and will be available in bottles and on draft exclusively in our tap room.”

We look forward to trying some of the Black Barn series on future visits.

Independent and Proud of It.

The Maine Beer Company believes beer drinkers have the right to know when they are supporting an independent craft brewery and has adopted the Brewers Association Seal of Independence.

Brewers Association Seal of Independence
Brewers Association Seal of Independence

Doing what’s right

Maine Beer Company’s motto, printed on every bottle is: “Do what’s right.” And it does, beyond making good beer. There are solar panels on the roofs and the taproom is solar powered. Ingredients for the beer and food are from local Maine farmers. Maine Beer Company is a member of 1% for The Planet, agreeing to donate one percent of gross annual sales to environmental charities.  It has partnerships with several Maine and global environmental groups, including Maine Coast Heritage Trust, Friends of Katahdin Woods & Water, Maine Audubon, and the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International. Its highly regarded beer, Lunch, is named after “Lunch,” a finback whale tracked by Allied Whale, a local marine mammal laboratory and 1% of the Planet member. And, the brewery regularly holds events in the Tasting Room to support designated charities.

1% for the Planet - Maine Beer Company

Visiting the Brewery

The Maine Beer Company is a short hop from L.L. Bean at 525 U.S. Route 1 Freeport, ME 04032. It’s easily found by taking Exit 20 off Interstate 295. As of this writing, Fall 2019, hours are Monday – Sunday, 11 am – 8 pm. excepting major holidays. Currently it doesn’t offer brewery tours. Food is served from open to close in the Tasting Room. In addition to large pretzels with mustard there’s a limited but delicious menu of pizza and salads, which is subject to seasonal changes.

Check the website: mainebeercompany.com or call (207) 221-5711 for current hours, beer and food availability, etc. Maine winters are traditionally tough, and Maine has been hit with even more severe weather the last couple of years which may affect power and road clearing.

See another of our stops on the Maine Beer Trail here.

Keeping track of your craft beer adventures

The Maine Brewers Guild distributes a free Maine Beer Trail brochure. Either download one from their website or pick up a hard copy at member breweries. You can get rewarded for visiting breweries if you have a brewery staff member checkoff, sign and date the brochure when you visit. If you visit 10 or more breweries you can earn a hat, t-shirt, or a prize pack.

If you want to keep more detailed records of where you went and what beer you enjoyed, you might like Keeping Up with Craft Beers: A Journal for Your Tasting Adventures. You can list up to 100 beers, as well as list breweries and brew pubs you liked as well as beer festivals.

I prefer writing in a journal to digital notes. I worked on the journal after I realized that the breweries often add to and change their beer offerings. It was becoming a challenge to remember which ones I like and those that I don’t. We just dropped into a brewery that we hadn’t visited in about a year and I pulled out my journal and consulted my notes before ordering. My notes helped me avoid ordering a beer I didn’t care for and getting one I hadn’t tried before that I enjoyed very much.

November 4, 2019 0 comment
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